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Roof and Attic Ventilation

Attic Ventilation
Thursday, 22 October 2009 01:21

Attic Ventilation Airflow Basics

 Attic Ventilation:

  • Reduces energy costs
  • Reduces or prevents ice dams and leaks in winter
  • Prolongs the life of shingle and roof components
  • Prevents condensation and mold in the attic

 Understanding how the air and wind flows in and around your house and attic is important when deciding on how to properly ventilate your roof and attic.

 We know from the laws of physics that cold air is denser and heavier than hot air. Cold air sinks and hot air rises or is pushed above the cold air.
Hot air inside the attic will rise and exhaust itself through the roof vents to the outside of the house. If the hot air is flowing out of the attic, then that air must be replaced by an equal amount of air. Otherwise the roof would collapse. If the attic floor is fairly well sealed, then the replacement air will come from outside of the house. The difference in air temperature from inside the attic and outside the attic, and the size of the ventilation openings, is the driving force in the rate of air movement.
 

Passive Airflow - Gable Vent

A house with gable vents alone will still exhaust hot attic air. Although not very efficiently.

  • The hot air will flow out the top of the gable vents as the colder air from outside flows into the attic through the lower part of the gable vent.
  • The cold air entering the attic will sink down along the attic wall and fill the space being vacated by the rising hot air.

ventilation 1 gable only

Passive Airflow - Ridge vent

An attic space that is only furnished with a ridge vent will still exhaust air without other intake vents. The warmest air in an attic is mostly concentrated in the center of the attic space. The air near the outer walls will be cooler as the heat radiates out of the structure. Especially if the house has large roof overhangs to keep the walls shaded.

  • In this situation, the heat will rise and exhaust out the center of the ridge vent, and cooler air will replace it by flowing into the ends of the ridge vent.

ventilation ridge vent only

Passive Airflow - Ridge and Gable Vents

If ridge vents and gable vents are installed the airflow pattern will look something like this.

  • Cooler air will enter at the lowest point of the gable vent and sink below the warm attic air. 
  • Warm air will be exhausted at the highest point of the gable vent and at the ridge vent.

ventilation ridge and gable

Passive Airflow - Ridge and Soffit Vents

A basic ridge vent with soffit vent installation.

  • Here the cool air enters the soffit vents and warm air is exhausted through the ridge vent.
  • In many cases this is usually sufficient intake and exhaust for ventilating an attic space.

actual airflow ridge vent soffit

Passive Airflow - Ridge, Gable and Soffit Vents

If both ridge vents and gable vents are installed with soffit vents the cooler air will still flow into the attic space through the soffit vents and be exhausted at both the ridge and gable vents.

  • This works especially well in hot climates to exhaust excessive heat in the attic, and in very snowy climates where heavy snowfall can blanket and block ridge vents for extended periods of time.

 

ventilation ridge  gable  soffit

View a short video on passive attic ventilation with ridge, gable and soffit vents.

 

 

 

 

Last Updated on Thursday, 17 December 2009 18:06
 

Comments  

 
0 #10 2011-02-07 21:22
My roofing contractor sold me on the removal of a power vent and several standard box vents, which were replaced by ridge vent. My attic space is between 1600-1800 and the vent is now maybe 25 feet total. The attic space has never been hotter in the summer. The first time I stuck my head up after the ventilation change, I could hardly breathe. I also have severe leaking. My roofer has now proposed to cover all the existing ridge vent and re-install box vents. The entire roof has already been completed, and I am concerned with the backwards approach to a solution. The climate here varies greatly, and I get both relentless sun and heavy snow. I would say my roof has a low pitch, relatively speaking; a person can not stand in my attic. The home is a ranch with a hip roof to one side, attached garage. The main house is more of a 'T' shape. I am lost as to whether or not to allow the repairs. I don't believe the ventilation system should ever have been changed after 40+ years.
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0 #9 2010-03-09 23:58
First make sure you have soffit vents all the way to the corners of the house/roof. If that is not the problem, a professional roofer could add ridge vent to the hip ridges. Extra care needs to be taken to prevent leaks.
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+1 #8 2010-03-09 15:51
I really need some advice and I can't find an anwer anywhere. I have a hip roof with almost no ridge at all. Less than a couple feet. I have installed off ridge vent but the attic is still not venting properly. I noticed the rooms in the corners of the house are about 15 degrees hotter in the summer than the interior room and that is because those corner rooms don't have a clear path to the top due to hitting 2x6 part way up. How do I vent those areas? Can I put vents at the point that the airflow is stopped, even though it's no where near the top of my roof? Or is there someway to create a path to the top of the attic with foil or something?
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0 #7 2010-03-09 15:46
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0 #6 2010-03-02 14:56
Melody, adding ridge vents would help enhance the attic ventilation. But, a high heating bill would indicate insufficient insulation or air leakage into the attic.
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+5 #5 2010-02-25 18:10
What is your opinion of adding ridge vents to our house which already has existing turbines? We had additional soffit vents added last summer, but our heating bill was still outrageous.
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0 #4 2010-02-03 15:10
Hi Rick,
Quote:
1) Should the home have all three types of vents?
2) Should wew open the sealed gable vent and install rafter baffels?



Yes and yes. And vent the shower to the exterior of the home.
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+1 #3 2010-02-02 15:10
I am Andrea's brother in Massachusetts. I am hearing different things from the contractors looking to fix my roof issue and was hoping this board could shed some light.

My home is a Cape sytle house with a full shed dormer on the back. We have vented drip edge, ridge vent and gable vents. One of the gable vents was sealed off by the prior owner as my sister noted. The front side of the house is missing the rafter baffels so the front vented drip edge is not working as the insulation is pressed against the roof decking and there is no air flow to the attic. Additional problems are that the shower vent does not go to the soffit and is therefor adding moisture to my attic...

Due to the poor ventilation and the shower vent, we have mold in the attic.

1) Should the home have all three types of vents?
2) Should wew open the sealed gable vent and install rafter baffels?

Thank you,
Rick
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-1 #2 2010-01-28 01:33
A well designed gable vent should have an insect screen and a drip pan on the bottom. That is usually enough. If they have unusual weather, you could also try a heavy filter material attached to the inside. Or a piece of roll ridge vent material that can be picked up at a roofing supply. Looks like a heavy scouring pad.
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+3 #1 2010-01-28 00:50
I am an architect in California. My brother called me with an attic venting issue in Massachusetts. Apparently the previous home owner closed up the gable attic vent to prevent snow from blowing in and ruining the ceiling finishes below. The roof decking and gable end plywood is now moldy. Is there a way to re-open the vent and prevent the snow from blowing in? Is there any venting material that can be applied to the interior side of the vent to prevent the admittance of snow?
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